Request an estimate today
A driveway takes a beating. Frost, road salt, hail, and heavy trucks all wear it down. Most slabs warn you first. You may see cracks, a low spot, or a rough, flaking top. Catch those signs early and you have time to plan.
Shootingbar Concrete is a referral service. We do not pour concrete. We connect homeowners in the Rockwood area with independent local providers who handle new concrete driveways. You ask for an estimate. Providers in our network send written quotes. You compare them and pick one, or none. There is no pressure and no obligation.
Walk your driveway in daylight. Look at the whole slab. A slab is just the flat sheet of concrete you park on. Do you see long cracks, low spots, or rough patches?
Small signs show up first. This page explains them, then walks through a new driveway project and how to compare estimates. Providers in our network do the work. Shootingbar Concrete makes the introduction.
Hairline cracks are common. Concrete shrinks a little as it dries. But a crack wider than a coin edge is different. So is a crack that grows each year. Water gets in. Frost pushes the gap wider. Cold winters with deep frost make this happen fast in the Rockwood area.
After rain, look for puddles. Water should run toward the street. If it sits, the ground below may have sunk. Pooling water can also drift toward your house, which matters if you have a basement and a sump pump.
Flaking means the top layer peels off in thin bits. Pitting means small holes. Road salt, frost, and a weak mix cause both.
Step on the edge of a slab. Does it rock? Does it sit lower than its neighbor? Soil under it has likely washed out or settled. Spring flooding can do this. A raised edge also becomes a trip hazard.
Some cracks run toward the foundation wall. You may also see a gap at the garage door. Look at more than the driveway in that case. Foundation repair experts study the structure of your home. A driveway provider handles concrete flatwork, which means flat jobs like drives, walks, and slabs. Ask the provider to note what they see. Then have the wall checked on its own.
Concrete driveway repair makes sense for a few narrow cracks or one small chip. It falls short when the trouble is in the soil under the slab. It also falls short when damage covers a large part of the surface.
Here is a simple rule. If about a third of the surface is cracked, sunken, or flaking, a patch may only buy a short time. This site focuses on full replacement and new driveways. Spot patching is a different kind of job. Ask each provider to explain why they suggest patching or replacing.
A provider usually starts by removing the old slab. They break it up and haul it away. A first-time driveway on bare ground skips this step.
The subbase is the packed gravel under the slab. It drains water and spreads the weight of your car. Forms are the wood or steel edges that shape the pour. Strong base work matters most where deep frost lifts soil.
Rebar (steel bars) or wire mesh helps hold the slab together. Control joints are shallow grooves cut into the surface. They guide where the concrete cracks, so the cracks stay neat and tight. Then the crew pours, levels, and finishes the surface. The slab needs days to cure, which means to harden slowly and fully.
A one-car drive is often 10 to 12 feet wide. A two-car drive runs about 20 to 24 feet. Add room if you want space to turn around or park a guest.
Thickness matters. Four inches is common for cars. Five or six inches suits pickups, work vans, and RVs.
For the surface, a broom finish leaves fine lines that grip in rain and ice. Ask about air-entrained concrete. It holds tiny air bubbles that help it handle frost and thaw. In a region with hail and hard storms, a dense, well-cured mix wears better.
The apron is the part of the driveway where it meets the street, often between the curb and the sidewalk. Your city usually sets rules for that strip. It may limit width, thickness, or slope.
Many towns also want a permit for a new or replaced driveway. Ask each provider who pulls the permit and who pays the fee. Also ask who handles utility marking before digging.
Providers in our network are independent. Judge each one on the written estimate. A clear estimate lists:
Ask for proof of insurance and any license your town requires. Ask what happens if rain delays the pour.
Get two or three estimates if you can. Set them side by side. Check that each one covers the same scope. A lower number may leave out the base work or the steel. A higher number may include more than you need.
Take your time. You owe nothing to anyone. Request a callback to check provider availability in your area.
Keep cars off the slab until your provider says it is ready. Many say about a week for cars and longer for heavy trucks. Keep pets and kids off the wet surface.
Sealing protects the top from water and salt. Ask when to apply it. In the first winter, go easy on de-icing salt. Sand gives grip and does less harm. Each spring, walk the slab again. Spot it early, and small issues stay small.
The provider breaks up worn concrete, hauls it off, and clears the site for new work.
Packed gravel and a gentle slope help water drain away from your home.
Rebar and planned joints help control cracks as the slab moves with the seasons.
The slab is poured, smoothed, textured, and left to harden before use.
Prices vary by size, soil, finish, and local rules. These are typical U.S. ranges only. Always get a written quote before you decide.
| Item | Typical range | Notes |
|---|---|---|
| New plain concrete driveway | $6 – $12 per sq ft | Thickness and finish change the price |
| Two-car driveway (about 500 sq ft) | $3,000 – $6,500 | Size and site access matter |
| Tear-out and haul-away | $1 – $3 per sq ft | Thick or steel-filled slabs cost more |
| Gravel base and grading | $1 – $3 per sq ft | Soft or wet soil needs more work |
| Rebar or wire mesh | $0.50 – $1.50 per sq ft | Rebar usually costs more than mesh |
| Permit and street apron work | $50 – $1,500 | Depends on local rules |
Walk the driveway. Note cracks, dips, flaking, and puddles. Take a few photos.
Send the request form, or request a callback to check provider availability near you.
Review scope, thickness, finish, and permit duties. Ask questions. Take your time.
Pick the provider you trust. They plan the dates, handle the work, and finish the job.
You start by requesting an estimate. Nothing is booked until you choose to move forward.
Providers in our network work near you and know local frost, soil, and permit rules.
Written quotes let you compare scope, thickness, and finish side by side before you decide.
There is no obligation. Take your time and say no if the fit is wrong.
Look for wide or growing cracks, deep flaking, sunken or rocking slabs, and pooling water. If damage covers about a third of the surface, replacement often makes more sense than patching. Get a written opinion.
Four inches is common for regular cars. Five or six inches suits trucks, vans, and RVs. Base depth and steel also matter. Ask each provider to list thickness and base work in the written estimate.
Many providers say about a week for cars and longer for heavy vehicles. Cold or wet weather can add time. Ask your provider for a date in writing, and follow it closely.
Planning a new driveway or patio? Send a request for an estimate. A local provider in our network will follow up. No obligation.
No obligation